Hi guys, is anybody running 100w bulbs?
Is it safe? Or will it mess up the canbus system?
As I was running an aftermarket hid kit and it ruined something under the dash to do with the cambus and was pritty expensive to fix. So don't want it to happen again
Ty
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Iv heard of people using 100 watt bulbs and it causing the wiring to melt causing problems. There was a thread I read a while back that the late rw1 posted in about why not to use 100 watt bulbs. Can't remember title. Person ally I wouldn't use them. Why do you want/ need 100 watt bulbs?
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Having worked in the aircraft manufacturing industry at the sharp end of developing designs and integrating them into aircraft, these lamps are most likely specified for a specific installation. Until one knows the rest of the helicopter design, you cannot say these are like for like. eg. What is the expected heat dissipation rate? What heat is the reflector taking away from these lamps as part of the design? What shape is the reflector (affects filament position in the bulb)? How many running hours is expected? The fact that they are similar "car" lamps bears no parallel and shouldn't be assumed.
I'll just leave this thought here...... this is a VW which I was asked to repair 4 years ago. It had direct connection high power lamps rather than the load passed through a relief relay circuit from the battery. The problem didn't manifest itself straight away. The guy was lucky in the end that he didn't have a dash board fire which couldn't be easily accessed. The only way of stopping this particular incident was disconnecting the battery. The circuit had eventually end up being "un-fused" through a multiple failure that changed the circuit current flow paths because the switch had melted and changed shape inside.
This was the state of the front lights loom with the wire melted into several other wires next to it. Fortunately in this case the loom was short in length and only went from the fuse-relay panel to the headlight switch. All inside the dash area, so extraction for repair was fairly easy.
By all means increase the lamp whiteness/brightness with car lamps from Osram, Philips, Razo's etc., but not at the expense of drawing extra current (ie. above 55watts) and roughly doubling the amps drawn.
And............ this guy hasn't returned to his posting to tell us what lamps he fitted that caused the reflectors to melt in his Scirocco.
I hear no relay "clicks" when the my Scirocco's lights are switched on, so I can only conclude until I see a circuit diagram, that the lamp switch is taking the full whack of what may be switched on. Contacts inside these switches are not big, are quite delicate and designed for what is normally expected plus a little. A failure is not necessarily a burn out as above illustrates. Once the switch fails, who knows what it will "reconnect" into the circuit which you may have no control over.
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My dad is a retired auto electrician and he had loads of people through his workshop with melted wiring problems after running 100w bulbs, also illegal. I would stay well clear
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Ring are a large company and Osram have bulbs with the same output, legally they cannot market a bulb without proof in lumens that it meets that. No harm in being a pessimist just means you can live in the stone age with tech
Going from 55W to 100W without wiring changes should definitely ring alarm bells anyway. The extra power has to come from somewhere, and you bet the wires won't be able to cope. Bypassing fuses and relays is just asking for more trouble.
Excellent post from the late RW1. He definitely left a goldmine in this forum