Viper Green 1.4 TSI 90kW BMT from Finland

[RoccoScientist]

Here's my pride and joy. The headlight washer on the driver's side will get a new lid in a week. (Edit: Replaced, but the photo stays for now)

MY2010
Delivery: 26.2.2010
Dyno result (driven ~6300 km, stock car, 98RON fuel): 96,4 kW / 210 Nm

Standard options include but are not limited to:
-Winter pack (heated seats, heated door mirrors, heated windscreen washers, headlight washers)
-7x17" Long Beach alloy wheels for summer

Additional options:

-Viper Green
-Bi-Xenons
-Media-In
-Rear parking sensor
-Radiojärjestelmä RCD 510 Dynaudio Excite
-Fully automatic aircon Climatronic
-Cruise control
-Spare tyre
-Mirror package (Leaving/Coming home -function, rain sensor, rear-view mirror with automatic dimming, electrically foldable door mirrors, "environment lighting" (probably the small lights in the door mirrors that illuminate the ground, footwell lights up front and a passanger's side door mirror that adjusts to show the ground when reversing)
-Tyre pressure monitor
-Carpet mats front & rear
-Mudflaps front & rear when delivered, now only front
-A rubber mat in the boot
-Partly debadged

BlueMotion Technology model has as standard:
-Start&stop system
-Hill hold

Tuning:
-OEM lowering springs 1K8071677 (more on this here)
-K&N E-2014 air filter (more on this here)
-BSR Sport Flow (40041192) cat back exhaust (more on this here)
-XDS enabled via VCDS (more on this here)
-LED rear number plate lights
-NGK PZFR6R8EG/03C905601A plugs fitted to replace the regular ones (this means a gap reduction from 0.9mm to 0.8 mm)

Other:
-7x17" Team Dynamics Pro Race 1.2 wheels for winter
-Aftermarket grill cover

[RoccoScientist]

The car visited a dyno (the same one as two years ago) on Monday. We did two sweeps and here are the results:

Driven: ~40 000 km
Fuel: Shell V-Power (which is 98 RON nowadays, AFAIK)

Conclusions:

-Shell V-Power does not give any power advantage over normal 98RON fuel in the 90 kW 1.4 TSI (CAXA)
-Sparkplugs with a 0.8 mm gap do not affect the performance of the CAXA engine compared with the standard plugs with a 0.9 mm gap
-The standard air filter and exhaust do in no way restrict the power of the CAXA engine, so fitting a K&N filter and a 3-inch cat-back exhaust have not given any advantage in power.
-The very slight difference in peak power between the runs is not significant at all, but falls under normal variation between different runs
-The slight increase in max torque compared to the first dyno run in 2010 may be due to the fact that it is found in an rpm range that is not included in the first dyno run.

Edit: Forgot to say that 4th gear was used in these sweeps and at least the second run wasn't taken to the rev limiter, since the last ~500 rpm of the curve is not that interesting, as can be seen from the figures (both old and new).

[Ericske]

Exellent reading material...thx...

[RoccoScientist]

No prob. I'm just glad if someone finds any of this useful or interesting. =)

[kenti]

Interesting indeed

Sent from my Galaxy tab 10.1

[RoccoScientist]

Update: I've had some minor issues with the gear box from the beginning, some of which are undoubtedly just "quirks". To keep a long story short, my car was recently diagnosed to have a faulty/damaged second gear synchro, which needs replacing. This on a 2 years and 8 months old, 50 000 km driven car with just 122 PS / 200 Nm. I was first quoted a "generous" offer of 1680 EUR for the repairs (the dealership wouldn't participate in any way, while the official importer would cover 70% of the cost of the parts and 0% of the cost of labour), but after complaining and contacting the customer protection agency I'm quite confident I'll end up paying a few hundred EUR at the most - although the dealer who sold me the car, and who's been very helpful previously as well, said that they're trying to get the costs divided so that I wouldn't have to pay anything for the repairs. Now I'm just waiting them to contact me. Luckily the synchro issue doesn't prevent me from driving the car and the second gear is still usable.

Furthermore, when I went to pick the car up, I had trouble getting it started. Well, the starting itself wasn't a problem, but the engine would run only for a few seconds - very unevenly and weakly - and then stall. Warning lights for engine (EDIT: catalytic converter, not engine), battery and EPC were on the whole time, so I went to fetch someone from the maintenance to have a look. After he tried starting the car a few times, the engine managed to stay running despite the feeling of it choking out and the situation slowly normalized. This behaviour occured after laying in the dealer's car park for a bit over a week and hasn't occured since, so I'm hoping it was just the humid weather playing tricks.

[sweeney782]

This weak syncro on 2nd gear totally spoils my car also. It has been like this since delivery from new. I have a friend who works in a VW garage who told me this is an unfortunate characteristic with the car and that is why they push you to buy DSG but, do not say anything about the manual box weakness. Warning to anyone wanting manual, only drive a car that is cold from the offset, when it is at full temp- it is noticeably better. Do I want to let someone strip the car and try and replace the syncro- and hope it may be a little better ? No chance!

[RoccoScientist]

Short update of new problems: After leaving the house today, I had gotten as far as the third traffic lights when the car started shaking slightly while I was waiting for the lights to change. I immediately checked the rpms and they were holding constant at the level they should be (~700 rpm). After a few seconds the start-stop -system reported a failure and the warning light for the catalytic converter started blinking, indicating combustion problems. I wonder if the 0.8 mm gap plugs could be the cause? Then again, I've had them for over 6 months already and driven for thousands of miles without any signs of problems.

Edit: Applying the throttle slightly stopped the shaking and the warning light stopped blinking soon after that. It took a while for the start-stop to start working. Had to have the car cool down for about 15 minutes.

[RW1]

0.8mm gap? I very much doubt it.

Needs VCDS diagnostics check of the memory as it is an obscure problem. It should have recorded some fault codes to look at.

Since July, did you ever establish your ECU firmware standard (VW Map number)?

C.

[RoccoScientist]

0.8mm gap? I very much doubt it.

Needs VCDS diagnostics check of the memory as it is an obscure problem. It should have recorded some fault codes to look at.

Since July, did you ever establish your ECU firmware standard (VW Map number)?

Nope, I was hoping to get the logs read, but never could fit it in my schedule without a hassle. However, I'm finally going to have the fault codes read and the ECU map version checked tomorrow. Needle sweep coding and checking the XDS is still turned on is also on the agenda.

[RoccoScientist]

Here are the results of the VCDS-scan (error messages only):


Thursday,25,October,2012,17:10:30:40164
VCDS Version: Release 11.11.4
Data version: 20120807

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Chassis Type: 1K0
Scan: 01 03 08 09 10 15 16 17 19 25 2E 42 44 46 47 52 55 56 61

VIN: WVWZZZ13ZAV4******

01-Engine -- Status: Malfunction 0010
03-ABS Brakes -- Status: OK 0000
04-Steering Angle -- Status: OK 0000
08-Auto HVAC -- Status: OK 0000
09-Cent. Elect. -- Status: Malfunction 0010
10-Park/Steer Assist -- Status: OK 0000
15-Airbags -- Status: OK 0000
16-Steering wheel -- Status: OK 0000
17-Instruments -- Status: OK 0000
19-CAN Gateway -- Status: OK 0000
25-Immobilizer -- Status: OK 0000
2E-Media Player 3 -- Status: OK 0000
42-Door Elect, Driver -- Status: OK 0000
44-Steering Assist -- Status: OK 0000
46-Central Conv. -- Status: OK 0000
47-Sound System -- Status: OK 0000
52-Door Elect, Pass. -- Status: OK 0000
55-Xenon Range -- Status: OK 0000
56-Radio -- Status: OK 0000
61-Battery Regul. -- Status: OK 0000

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 01: Engine (CAX) Labels: 03C-906-016-CAX.clb
Part No SW: 03C 906 016 AA HW: 03C 906 016 L
Component: MED17.5.5 G01 7356
Revision: L5H09--- Serial number:
Coding: 0000072
Shop #: WSC 11400 205 66111
VCID: 5EB86A8E89AB71E8739

2 Faults Found:
000768 - Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected
P0300 - 000 - - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00100000
Fault Priority: 0
Fault Frequency: 2
Mileage: 50920 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2031.14.17
Time: 16:24:06

Freeze Frame:
RPM: 713 /min
Load: 24.7 %
Speed: 0.0 km/h
Temperature: 40.0°C
Temperature: 9.0°C
Absolute Pres.: 1000.0 mbar
Voltage: 14.605 V

000772 - Cylinder 4
P0304 - 000 - Misfire Detected - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00100000
Fault Priority: 0
Fault Frequency: 2
Mileage: 50920 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2031.14.17
Time: 16:24:06

Freeze Frame:
RPM: 713 /min
Load: 24.7 %
Speed: 0.0 km/h
Temperature: 40.0°C
Temperature: 9.0°C
Absolute Pres.: 1000.0 mbar
Voltage: 14.605 V

Readiness: 0000 0000

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 09: Cent. Elect. (J519) Labels: 1K0-937-08x-09.clb
Part No SW: 5K0 937 087 D HW: 5K0 937 087 D
Component: BCM PQ35 H 011 0028
Revision: BE011001
Coding: 40100A3898250A0040080080740048E643550A88636D8D60648087000001
Shop #: WSC 00020 790 00000
VCID: 3668D22E81DB99A8CB9

Subsystem 1 - Part No: 1K8 955 119 D Labels: 1KX-955-119.CLB
Component: Wischer 06110 22 0614
Coding: 009795

Subsystem 2 - Part No: 1K0 955 559 AH Labels: 1K0-955-559-AG.CLB
Component: RLS 221209 05 54 0402
Coding: 0330ED

1 Fault Found:
00447 - Function Limitation due to Over-Voltage
001 - Upper Limit Exceeded - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00100001
Fault Priority: 6
Fault Frequency: 13
Reset counter: 29
Mileage: 48145 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2030.14.12
Time: 18:24:30

Freeze Frame:
Term 15 On
Voltage: 14.80 V
ON
ON
ON
OFF
OFF

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Strangely, the problems I had on the dealer's yard seem to have gone unnoticed by the system. I would have assumed that a stalling engine would leave at least some fault codes.

[RW1]

Ah... your engine ECU is running an old software VW map standard which I had thought was the case. You need in the first instance get the ECU up to date as the 122PS VW map is the source of a lot your misfire problems. You are currently at 7356 which is two generations behind. Current version is 9090 for your engine ECU (The intermediate now superceded was 8497). That can be done as a warranty due to the misfire that has been logged in Engine Controller - 01.

With the VW map updated to 9090, you will have eliminated a known issue, so you will have a base level from which to further check........ if the rough engine does happen again.

And that VW map standard will explain the misfires back in the summer!

Don't clear the fault codes in controller 01, so the dealer can see them prior to actioning an ECU update.

------------------

Controller - 09, fault code 00447.

I would charge your Scirocco's battery. It will be sufficient to charge it on the car with a intelligent trickle charger for 6 hours at 4 amps. The battery has been in at a low state of charge (25% charged) about 2,775Km previously assuming your current mileage is 51,000Km roughly. This can lead to some on-board electrical controllers such as the Stop/Start misbehaving. You may have to regularly charge the battery if the weather is cold. Particularly if the car stands for periods or does short journeys with the occassional long (1 hour duration and above) journey.

C.

[Amaranth]

the dyno stuff is really cool

it was intresting to find out what makes a difference and what doesnt

another thing i found really intresting is your 122 has had similar issues to mine
the second gear syncro is the main one that pops out to me as the blackpool vw dealer said that it was unheard of in the sciroccos
after the repair mine has been working perfectly only difference is an audible whine in first gear since they opened it up
hoping thats not something serious

hope you get all your problems sorted

[RoccoScientist]

Thanks once again, RW1. I'll have to contact the dealer and ask how we're going to sort this out. My warranty ended in February and I haven't serviced the car at the dealer's , so they might not be that willing to do it for free. We'll see what happens... About the battery: Thanks for the heads up, but I don't really have the chance to charge it anywhere on a regular basis. I don't own a charger, and if I did, I'd still preferably need a garage or a driveway of my own to use it. I can't see myself leaving the charger on the street overnight. My driving does consist of lots of short journeys and it does get cold here during the winter, but I still haven't noticed any real battery related problems during these past few years. The few start-stop failures I've had have always been accompanied by misfires and I haven't had any big issues with the electronics. I've no idea why the fault code has appeared when it did, since it wasn't that cold at the time and my driving has been pretty much the same for a long time - although after that I've done several longer trips. I wish the dates made some sense, so I could at least try to guess what I was doing at the time the fault was registered. I'll still ask what the dealer thinks.

Amaranth, thanks! I would try to get that whining first gear sorted out or then have the dealer say it's nothing to worry about, preferably in an e-mail so that you'll have it in "writing" if something should go wrong later on.

[RW1]

Last February? Do you not get 3 years warranty in Finland from point of new sale?????? Your chassis number indicates around January/February 2010 build. Therefore 3 years is to January/February 2013.

Battery charging is the first call. The last voltage spike was 14.80 volts. The reason to top up the battery is because the battery is like a very large capacitor and should dampen the alternator voltage. With 13 hits, that is the first easy part. If it re-occurs again, then the battery or the alternator voltage regulator is suspect.

From what you have written, the Stop/Start may have pushed the battery too far down in charge level or the battery is aging so it has consequential lower charge capacity now than when new. Modern batteries are not designed to charge up fast. The way they should compensate is to fit a larger battery. If you have the standard 1.4 12volt/60Ahr battery, that is bad of VW. I would hope they fitted a 12v 72Ahr or 12 volt 69Ahr battery. Preferably the latter 12v 69Ahr which is an Enhanced Flooded Battery.

Time & Date decode on the AutoScan is coming in a VCDS issue soon. Maybe only limited to the Autoscan function, not the Fault Codes - 02 screen.
The mileage point in Km's is genuine, so you can use that OK to pin-point a time period.

C.

[RoccoScientist]

February? Do you not get 3 years warranty in Finland from point of new sale?????? Your chassis number indicates around January/February 2010 build. Therefore 3 years is to January/February 2013.

Unfortunately no. Here the general warranty for Volkswagens is only 2 years (or 100 000 km, if I remember correctly). The paintjob has a 3 year warranty and then there's a 12 year against rust (not surface rust, but holes caused by rusting).

Battery charging is the first call. The last voltage spike was 14.80 volts. The reason to top up the battery is because the battery is like a very large capacitor and should dampen the alternator voltage. With 13 hits, that the first easy part. If it re-occurs again, then the battery or the alternator voltage regulator is suspect.

I did a ~550 km round trip on Tuesday, so 2 x 3 hours of driving with an average speed of ~90 km/h. On the way back I drove ~30 min with the rpms over 3000, since this is supposed (or so I've been told) to help burn and flush some combustion residue from the valves etc. Surely this would have charged the battery, unless there was something wrong with the parts themselves?

If you have the standard 1.4 12volt/60Ahr battery, that is bad of VW. I would hope they fitted a 12v 72Ahr or 12 volt 69Ahr battery.

I have the BlueMotion Technology model, which came with the 72 Ahr battery if I remember correctly. I'll have to double check this, though.

[RW1]

I did a ~550 km round trip on Tuesday, so 2 x 3 hours of driving with an average speed of ~90 km/h. On the way back I drove ~30 min with the rpms over 3000, since this is supposed (or so I've been told) to help burn and flush some combustion residue from the valves etc. Surely this would have charged the battery, unless there was something wrong with the parts themselves?

Remember the fault is a while back. A couple of runs like above will restore the battery.... but it only lasts for a while if you then continue to do Stop/Start driving in town where the battery does not get chance to recoup its charge level easily.

I have the same with my urban 10Km drive at 15 minutes duration x 10 events every week. With an occassional drive for longer. As a consequence my battery gets as down to as low as 25% charged. Its fine in summer where the battery is warmer and can charge up quicker but in winter it takes longer to charge while driving the short journeys. I have just started for this winter period to hook up the trickle charger once a week (unless my routine has included a 1 hour plus drive.)

C.

[RoccoScientist]

Yes, of course. I'll keep an eye on the charge and possible fault codes.

Update on the synchro issue: Due to the fact that I had reported gearbox issues while the car was still under warranty, the dealer and the importer will split the cost of the synchro repair and I won't have to pay anything. I'm glad that I don't have to worry about this anymore.

[RoccoScientist]

The new synchro along with a bunch of related parts as well as transmission oil have now been changed. The ECU was also given a software update. Second gear no longer makes nasty noises, but the gearbox is still notchy like nobody's business when trying to shift quickly. Relaxed shifts are ok. The ECU update has not resulted in noticeable differences. The car seemed to be slightly thirstier than normal during the first 200 km, but now I'm getting normal mileage again. Haven't had any surprise misfire problems either, but the update failed to remove misfires if I raise the revs during the catalytic converter's warm up cycle right after startup. I had a chance to try this a couple of days ago and raising the revs from 1200 rpm to 1700 rpm immeadiately got the engine misfiring sporadically. This time I didn't wait for the start-stop -system to fail, however.

Anyways, I'm glad the synchro problem got sorted out. The dealer had the car ready a day earlier than promised and I wasn't charged for the ECU update either, so in the end I'm very happy with the service I've gotten.

[RW1]

Glad it is sorted somewhat. 2nd gears on VW boxes are always similar, Mk2 Scirocco, Corrado

The car seemed to be slightly thirstier than normal during the first 200 km, but now I'm getting normal mileage again.

That occurs because the software loading puts the ECU back to basic so it has to re-learn which takes abour the distance you've mentioed.

but the update failed to remove misfires if I raise the revs during the catalytic converter's warm up cycle right after startup. I had a chance to try this a couple of days ago and raising the revs from 1200 rpm to 1700 rpm immeadiately got the engine misfiring sporadically. This time I didn't wait for the start-stop -system to fail, however.

Well you've run out of software...... can't be the coil packs as they would do it at other times while still warming up. That leaves the plugs or .......

When you narrowed the gap from 0.9mm to 0.8mm, did this lessen the effect. If so, narrow the gap to 0.7mm.

The other is to look at the Camshaft Adjuster Solenoid Valve as it could be lazy like mine. This could be worth a try if the camshaft/valves are not being moved quickly enough in the transistion from retarded valve timing to normal valve timing position. Retarded valves would push incomplete combustion into the exhaust manifold/cat area. The pulsing should be done with car battery 12 volts when the stopped engine is hot. Its a known problem with the valve sticking.

Actually took mine out in the end and dipped the valve in pure engine oil flush concentrate as shown.

C.