Tailgate rattle/clunk

[skippy]

While washing my car a short while ago, I was pressing down while cleaning the tailgate and realised there was a little play/movement.

The other side of the tailgate (offside) was not quite so bad. At that moment I had a lightbulb moment, I think this is the issue that I have since I had another creak fixed (broken spot weld http://www.sciroccocentral.co.uk/forum/ ... 0&start=20" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;) a few weeks back.

I have the car booked back in, as I believe the waxoyl has melted in the recent hot weather, but I think it is the tailgate after all. I will follow this thread and see if I can adjust the bump stops, this may be the answer I was looking for!

I think the dealer did attempt to adjust the tailgate in an effort to locate the original problem but I am certain this is the issue now. That's my job tomorrow!

[Scottydog]

Booked my car in on Friday for this tailgate rattle problem (mine had it pretty bad).

VW Chelmsford located the problem to these rubber stops (which I already suspected) and adjusted/lubricated them for free.

No more rattle!

On a side note, I had the new beetle as a courtesy car, which I rather liked..

[skippy]

Booked my car in on Friday for this tailgate rattle problem (mine had it pretty bad).

VW Chelmsford located the problem to these rubber stops (which I already suspected) and adjusted/lubricated them for free.

No more rattle!

On a side note, I had the new beetle as a courtesy car, which I rather liked..

Good news! Yes - mine was the rubber stops, incredible how a simple adjustment can stop such an annoying and irritating rattle.

[Vann77]

Just solve the troubling tailgate rattle. Thank you very much for the solution!

[eMiL-VR6]

I had a similar issue with the rattle/creaking at the back.
It was the C pillar plastic that was rubbing the rear right window. It was fixed my using a rasp and cutting down the edges!

Thought it someone else was looking for some help with this problem.

[dchapman32]

1. On the centre top of the rear boot wall push the little flap fully down into the cavity and hold. Measure the gap from the base of the "U" to the locks metal holding pin. It should be about 5mm. I've assumed here that the plastic trim is consistant on the Sciroccos, not much else to reference for the plates position (which can move around in its location before tightening).

Also pick two identical point on the rear car bodywork, left and right sides, and check the metal holding pin is in a central position.

If not this, then there are two screw head bolt holding the holding pin plate in place. (You will need an impact driver to undo these from experience and they need to re-tightened strongly to withstand the hatch slams etc.).

2. Open the boot hatch and close it so that it just rests on its stops. The best reference point I could find with a tape measure was the base of the shiney black plastic trim. The bottom is fairly straight, so align your tape measure with the bottom edge (red line) and measure the gap across to the main bodywork. This should be about 13mm.

3. Now shut the hatch. Take the same measurement distance as in 2. The should be about 5mm.

If the measurement differ,

then some adjustment of the stops to acheive 13mm open is via the hatch's stops.

To acheive 5mm closed it will be necessary to adjust the position of the holding pin plate. The dimension measured in 1. will tell you if this is way out and also act as a datum starting point to get your adjustment right.

Noticed a clucking coming from the rear of my 'Roc the other day. Searched and found this - my tailgate definitely had some give so followed this guide (5mm and 13mm) and the boot fits lovely and flush now! Top guide, thanks mate.

However turns out the sound was coming from my wheel bearings still, great closing tailgate

EDIT: wheel bearings didn't do the trick... Long story short it was the drop links... Even VW couldn't crack it!

[maq]

Rubber stop fixed just worked a treat for me.. Thanks to all the posters in this thread

M.

[D C]

Thanks guys

[SciroccoEire]

This worked a treat!

Thanks guys

[Paul_W]

I tried to adjust the stops on my tailgate yesterday but it defeated me. I was able to loosen the allen bolt but still the stop was firmly attached. No amount of pulling, wiggling or twisting would make it move at all. Any pointers?

[mahonyart]

Ive just removed mine, couldn't stop it rattling no matter how much I adjusted them!...has stopped the rattling, just means you have to lift the boot as you unlock it.

[gromit105]

hi guys looks like this is a standard scirocco problem we have had the same with the wife's car three times now we took it to the dealer to fix under warranty. car is no longer under warranty so will have to give it a go myself. will use the write up from RW1.
Keep up the good work

[VWGirl10]

I think this is what is wrong with mine. The annoying thing is my boyfriend won't even listen to me and gives the rubbish about everything needs to flex but it is a horrible noise I seem to hear it more when I have the windows down. How easy is this to do myself as looks like I won't be getting any help?

[Manners14]

I've not had to do this myself, but from what I have read on the first page it looks relatively easy.
May require a few tries to get it perfect, but if you have some allen keys then look back at the first page of the post and theres some pictures on there.
it should be a case of turning it slightly. refitting, and checking.

[dchapman32]

Yeah the fix to adjust the boot is pretty easy. I seem to be having another issue now though... under breaking I'm hearing a clunk coming from the rear. Wondered if the exhaust had any wobble but doesn't seem to be that. Anyone have any other thoughts?

[vladandrei51]

So sorry to write on this old of a thread but I have a question.

I bought new bumper stops and ajusted them but I found that unless I pull it out almost all the way, my hatch is still rattling. I'm talking a good cm and a half more "out" from stock. Are there any downsides to have them set up like this? Can the spring be under too much load and fail?

I found that popping the hatch is pretty... aggresive.

Has anyone has them pulled out that much?

[Dreamer]

Fortunately I have no rattles at the moment after putting velcro felt side pads into the hinge sockets of the parcel shelf and adding anti-squeak tape discs to the hatch bump stops on the bodywork by the tail lights.

Took some "jig measurements" the other day on mine seeing as this seems a frequent problem as a future reference. It may help some to know the factory standard (new car). Finding reference points for the measures wasn't good but here are the best I found.

1. On the centre top of the rear boot wall push the little flap fully down into the cavity and hold. Measure the gap from the base of the "U" to the locks metal holding pin. It should be about 5mm. I've assumed here that the plastic trim is consistant on the Sciroccos, not much else to reference for the plates position (which can move around in its location before tightening).

Also pick two identical point on the rear car bodywork, left and right sides, and check the metal holding pin is in a central position.

If not this, then there are two screw head bolt holding the holding pin plate in place. (You will need an impact driver to undo these from experience and they need to re-tightened strongly to withstand the hatch slams etc.).

2. Open the boot hatch and close it so that it just rests on its stops. The best reference point I could find with a tape measure was the base of the shiney black plastic trim. The bottom is fairly straight, so align your tape measure with the bottom edge (red line) and measure the gap across to the main bodywork. This should be about 13mm.

3. Now shut the hatch. Take the same measurement distance as in 2. The should be about 5mm.

If the measurement differ,

then some adjustment of the stops to acheive 13mm open is via the hatch's stops.

To acheive 5mm closed it will be necessary to adjust the position of the holding pin plate. The dimension measured in 1. will tell you if this is way out and also act as a datum starting point to get your adjustment right.

C.

Try this guide from this thread


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[vladandrei51]

Ok, kinda embarrassed to say this but might help others

I put back my spare wheel and that black thingy that lifts up with the lid and now I'm rattle free... If your truck rattles and you took the spare wheel or... That black thingy... off, check that first. That rattle literally made me hate both my car and my mechanic for a good month.

Now everything is super quite inside