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Changing the timing chain

Posted: Wed Feb 28, 2018 7:12 am
by Man555ify
Hey guys, this morning I got a engine lamp constantly glowing, took a diagnosis, and it's the timing chain :shrug:

Have any of you guys had any experience with changing this? Some good tips? I am a mechanic myself, so I'll do it myself :clap:

Re: Changing the timing chain

Posted: Wed Feb 28, 2018 12:44 pm
by blower
I did my timing chain a couple of years ago on my 1.4 tsi twincharger....here is a guide I wrote up for someone else around that time:

I have recently rebuilt my 1.4 TSI and had nothing but the cheap ebay timing tools, dial indicator set and some counterhold tools - so it can be done accurately without spending a fortune on specialist tools.

You will need:

-Camshaft locking tool
-Crankshaft locking bolt
-Chain Tensioner locking pin
-Counterhold tool for the camshaft sprockets
-Counterhold tool for the crankshaft pulley
-Dial indicator with extension piece to screw into spark plug hole

This is the procedure I followed, paraphrased and based on VW's official workshop procedure with my own stuff thrown in:

First, remove the chain, to do this retract tensioner back, insert the locking pin to hold it in he retracted position.
If the chain is not new, mark the direction of rotation on the chain so it goes back in the same way.
Remove the bolts to the camshaft adjuster (VVT) and the exhaust cam sprockets, remove the camshaft adjuster along with the chain.

With the chain off, reinstall the camshaft adjuster and the exhaust cam sprocket. Tighten the adjuster bolt to 40NM (left hand thread) and the exhaust sprocket bolt to 50nm.
You MUST use a counterhold tool do this....DO NOT use the camshaft locking tool as counterhold when tightening these bolts, it will damage the tool and possibly put it out of alignment.

It is essential the camshafts are locked when setting the timing. With the chain off and the sprockets temporarily tightened, the tool should now be inserted in fully (you will need to manually turn the camshaft adjuster (VVT) sprocket and the exhaust cam sprocket in order to get the holes to line up at the end of the camshafts to insert the tool - a second pair of hands helps as you will be fighting the spring pressure on the camshafts.

Be careful not to push the camshafts axially too much when getting the locking tool holes in the right position.

With the camshaft locking tool inserted, remove the camshaft adjuster and exhaust cam sprocket bolts - again you MUST use a counterhold tool.
Install the chain over the cam sprockets and crankshaft sprocket, reinstall the cam sprocket bolts so they are only holding the sprockets on but are just loose enough for the sprockets to turn on the locked camshafts.

Tension the chain by removing the chain tensioner retention pin.

With the camshafts locked, the chain on, the cam sprockets able to spin - its time to set TDC. Screw the dial indicator extension with dial into cylinder 1 spark plug hole.
Find TDC - turning crankshaft clockwise (pulley side), making a note of where it is on the dial gauge.

Maximum permissible deviation from TDC No. 1 cylinder: ± 0.01 mm (that's usually just ONE of the minimum divisions on the dial gauge, so you must be very accurate here, turning the crankshaft slowly when you get close to TDC). If you go past it by more than 0.01mm, do 2 full rotations of the crankshaft round again.

With TDC Set, you can now lock the crankshaft. Unscrew the plug on the crankcase, screw in the locking bolt and tighten to 30NM
This will lock the crankshaft and stop it turning clockwise (pulley side) (only).

Now we can tighten the camshaft sprocket bolts, with counterhold tool - tighten the camshaft adjuster bolt to 40nm (left hand thread) and the exhaust sprocket bolt to 50nm

Now remove the camshaft locking tool AND remove the crankshaft locking bolt.

The timing must now be checked before the final angle tightening of the cam sprocket bolts:

Rotate crankshaft 2 turns clockwise (from pulley side), back to TDC - remember get it bang on TDC, if you go past more than 0.01mm you rotate 2 more turns.
Attempt to insert the camshaft locking tool - if it inserts ok then great (you shouldn't have to force it in) - if not then you need to repeat above procedure.

Now for final stage - reinstall the crankshaft locking bolt, tightening to 30NM.
Remove the camshaft locking tool.

Using counterhold, further tighten both sprocket bolts by 90 degrees - Left hand thread for camshaft adjuster. Sprockets must not move on tightening so ensure you are counter-holding well (2nd pair of hands will help)

Leave the crankshaft locking bolt in for when you tighten the crankshaft pulley down (150NM, 180degree....although I couldn't quite get 180deg on it, i'd say 90deg is fine)

Remember you really should be using new cam sprocket bolts and crankshaft pulley bolts as they have an angle turn which causes them to stretch and re-using them could be risky.