Scirocco Central

Hello,

I just finished converting my scirocco to AWD, it still requires some minor software adjustments, but it works great.
If you want to do it and have any questions, maybe i can help.

Below is a link to a video of it in action :
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Wow very nice project! Do you have some pictures of the modifications?
Would love to read everything you changed on it.

I'd gladly read a write up what you have done to get it to this

Sadly, i don't have details, step by step because i honestly i was lazy

i will add a few i got, with "before and after"

Crazy stuff!

I changed the following:

1. Gearbox, from an 2014 audi S3, engine code CJXC and gearbox code NYG.
1.1 there were some minor adjustments made to a support plate (cutting it to fit my engine).
1.2 i also needed a few other nuts and bolts, a heat shield, and another metal plate (right drive shaft guard)
1.3 i also needed another starter, because my starter was smaller than what the S3 has.
2. front right drive shaft, from an audi a3 quattro from 2010
3. added Cardan shaft from Audi A3 S3 8V TFSI
4. the fuel tank was a mess because i could not find one that fitted so i bought a fuel tank complete from Audi TT S 8J 2012 and then i cut the neck from my tank and welded it with plastic on the audi tank
5. ABS pump i used 1K0907379BE (1K0614517CP), i don't know what car it is from
6. rear frame was from the same Audi s3 2014
7. i cut of half of the spare wheel compartment to fit the rear frame.
8. rear haldex diff was from Audi TT 8J Roadster 0BR525010C
9. rear drive shafts from the same car as the rear diff
10. rear bearing housing was part number 1K0505435AD and 1K0505436AD, i think from a golf R 2011 or 2012
11. rear bearings were new, they fit golf R 2011 2012
12. the exhaust is custom, i kept the rear silencer, i changed the middle one because the original one did not fit. A good middle silencer that fits is from audi S3 2014, but it's a lot of money, part number 5Q0253409B or 5Q0253409C
12.1 i had to take out the whole exhaust and bend it a little different near the first catalytic converter to fit the drive shaft front flange and heat shield.
13. Haldex wiring was simple, powertrain can + and -, power + and -, and brake pedal signal.
14. also i had to wire in the second fuel sender, i can't find the documentation now, but i have it somewhere.
15. there is no place to screw in the middle drive shaft support, and i had to weld 4 bolts to the body
16. i had to change the way the rear seats are bolted to the floor to fit the new tank and rear frame.
17. i welded another 3 bolts for the fuel tank straps.

A few more pictures:
when i cut the spare wheel compartment, that was the point of no return ))

atanase wrote:I changed the following:

1. Gearbox, from an 2014 audi S3, engine code CJXC and gearbox code NYG.
1.1 there were some minor adjustments made to a support plate (cutting it to fit my engine).
1.2 i also needed a few other nuts and bolts, a heat shield, and another metal plate (right drive shaft guard)
1.3 i also needed another starter, because my starter was smaller than what the S3 has.
2. front right drive shaft, from an audi a3 quattro from 2010
3. added driveshaft from Audi A3 S3 8V TFSI
4. the fuel tank was a mess because i could not find one that fitted so i bought a fuel tank complete from Audi TT S 8J 2012 and then i cut the neck from my tank and welded it with plastic on the audi tank
5. ABS pump i used 1K0907379BE (1K0614517CP), i don't know what car it is from
6. rear frame was from the same Audi s3 2014
7. i cut of half of the spare wheel compartment to fit the rear frame.
8. rear haldex diff was from Audi TT 8J Roadster 0BR525010C
9. rear drive shafts from the same car as the rear diff
10. rear bearing housing was part number 1K0505435AD and 1K0505436AD, i think from a golf R 2011 or 2012
11. rear bearings were new, they fit golf R 2011 2012
12. the exhaust is custom, i kept the rear silencer, i changed the middle one because the original one did not fit. A good middle silencer that fits is from audi S3 2014, but it's a lot of money, part number 5Q0253409B or 5Q0253409C
12.1 i had to take out the whole exhaust and bend it a little different near the first catalytic converter to fit the drive shaft front flange and heat shield.
13. Haldex wiring was simple, powertrain can + and -, power + and -, and brake pedal signal.
14. also i had to wire in the second fuel sender, i can't find the documentation now, but i have it somewhere.
15. there is no place to screw in the middle drive shaft support, and i had to weld 4 bolts to the body
16. i had to change the way the rear seats are bolted to the floor to fit the new tank and rear frame.
17. i welded another 3 bolts for the fuel tank straps.

That is one impressive project
Definitely would love to have AWD retrofited on mine, but looks like allot of mods and funds.
How does it drive now? Did you managed to properly test it?
Cheers

Check the facebook video in the first post, it drives awesome !!!
On snow it's alot of fun, and on dry tarmac it feels like it has endless grip!
I also retrofitted the dynamic suspension thingies...
I still have some software crap to sort out on the ECU of the engine ...and because of that i have no ESP function now, i will post what needs to be done on that once i will sort it out...
And yes, it bled me dry... )))

And since it seems like i must do some software mambo-jumbo on the ECU of the engine, i might as well get the K04 turbo from the Scirooco R, inter-coolers and the other thingies...and get it to 300-ish HP....

Looks like a dream car project
I would recommend also adding a plus on the handling side:
- super pro alloy wishbones and adjustable ball joints, if possible complemented with lowering springs/coilovers;
From my point of view it is the best mod that i have done to my rocco in terms of handling, really increases the steering feel and stability when pushing hard on corners.
Also, it feels incredible assuring at very high speeds
Cheers

yes, i have something like that in mind, because you are right, it seems a bit soft sometimes.
But i think i will take a break for a month or two, because i either buy some stuff for the car or i go to a ski resort for 10 days, and the latter seems to be winning... ))

Awesome work! I think another bloke on here was looking to convert his facelift R to 4wd too!

Fuck you beat me to it! I am doing this this year, I have all the parts ready! Will read this thread properly after work! Very nice work sir! Hats off to you!

Some guys here in Finland have been working on a Scirocco R AWD project for some time now and have now completed the car and all the paperwork to make it road-legal. I understand they're going to do a write-up about the project in English later, but for now some pictures and text in Finnish. They're still updating the forum thread about how they realised the project check back later and there will be more I guess.

Funnily the car they have modded is one that I actually went for a testdrive in while it was for sale at a dealer some 2.5 years ago.

http://www.ffp.fi/bb/viewtopic.php?p=997690" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

On Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/pajallecom/?fref=ts" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Video: " onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Great job. Must be a big job.
What a fun car on snow, -5 deg C for perfect sliding temperature.

Wow!!! This is proper crazy stuff, wouldn't even dream of doing it to my car; not even by a professional.

Question: You said you have "welded" some bolts in place? Isn't that a structural issue?! In that a bolt (when done up with a nut) is stronger than a weld - so you have now downgraded the bolts strength to that of a weld (weakest link and all that).... Or is this a high strength weld?

dimexi wrote:Wow!!! This is proper crazy stuff, wouldn't even dream of doing it to my car; not even by a professional.

Question: You said you have "welded" some bolts in place? Isn't that a structural issue?! In that a bolt (when done up with a nut) is stronger than a weld - so you have now downgraded the bolts strength to that of a weld (weakest link and all that).... Or is this a high strength weld?

That's not true at all, firstly he would have welded the brackets into place because they are not there on the scirocco, so either welded the brackets to screw the bolt into place or just bypassed the bolt as such and welded to the chassis. Secondly, anyone with actual welding skills can make a weld just as strong as the bolt, providing the weld penetrates both sides of metal then it will be absolutely solid.

Of course, some people weld stuff and it falls off, that's purely due to a bad weld

Gazzagood wrote:

dimexi wrote:Wow!!! This is proper crazy stuff, wouldn't even dream of doing it to my car; not even by a professional.

Question: You said you have "welded" some bolts in place? Isn't that a structural issue?! In that a bolt (when done up with a nut) is stronger than a weld - so you have now downgraded the bolts strength to that of a weld (weakest link and all that).... Or is this a high strength weld?

That's not true at all, firstly he would have welded the brackets into place because they are not there on the scirocco, so either welded the brackets to screw the bolt into place or just bypassed the bolt as such and welded to the chassis. Secondly, anyone with actual welding skills can make a weld just as strong as the bolt, providing the weld penetrates both sides of metal then it will be absolutely solid.

Of course, some people weld stuff and it falls off, that's purely due to a bad weld

Thanks for the reply.... Hmmmmmm - I think that depends on the bolt, there are definitely bolts that are stronger than welds (well, in the aerospace industry there are) - I guess it also depends on the orientation of load.

Anyway, I was just curious!!

dimexi wrote:Wow!!! This is proper crazy stuff, wouldn't even dream of doing it to my car; not even by a professional.

Question: You said you have "welded" some bolts in place? Isn't that a structural issue?! In that a bolt (when done up with a nut) is stronger than a weld - so you have now downgraded the bolts strength to that of a weld (weakest link and all that).... Or is this a high strength weld?

There are two places i welded:

1. The middle support element for the cardan-shaft has to be bolted to the car. The car does not have the 4 studs/bolts in place. Here you have two options: 1. Bore 4 holes in the underbody of the car and weld 4 studs. 2 Bore 4 holes and use 4 rivet-nuts. It's not a problem of strength because the middle support frame has a pretty soft rubber bushing inside.

2. i have to weld 3 studs/bolts to the floor-pan to fix the fuel-tank. they are 5 mm studs, not much strength needed