Scirocco Central

Andy-GTI wrote:Those are not VAG engine codes

VAG Codes are usually 3 letters.

Try http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_Vo ... _132-155kW and scroll up abit

HantsMan wrote:

Andy-GTI wrote:Those are not VAG engine codes

VAG Codes are usually 3 letters.

Try http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_Vo ... _132-155kW and scroll up abit

As i said, those are not the engine codes

I've got ETKA and can see what engine codes are used. . . .

From Service Training manual http://www.arinahnell.com/other/vw/tech/20tsi.pdf the engine code CCTA - CBFA, most other articles I've seen refer to it as the EA888 engine which must be the Series code.

EA888 is obviously just the family of engines, even that wikipedia link shows a 1.8 and 2.0 under that designation.

It is DEFINATELY not the engine code.

I can post the codes, models and produciton dates when i get home from work. . . .

Having come from a MKV I can categorically tell you the engine is not the same, probably 90% similar but defo not the same. Emissions are lower, economy is better, runs on 95 RON not 98 RON. I read somewhere that some internals have been changed to reduce pumping losses and friction etc. Some people may think they are the same due to the same quoted outputs but these engines are so tuneable that they could map this new engine so that it produces exactly the same output as the MKV this is just quoted power. For instance, it is a well known fact in tuning circles that most of the TDi 170's show around 180-185 on the rolling road.

I am picking up my 140 TDi Roc tomorrow and driving it across the continent to Bulgaria. I am not worried about run in miles but run in speed. I got warned in another part of the forum that I should vary the rpm during the 1500miles trip as running in at constant speed might cause glazing of the bores?!? Any ideas? I wouldn't mind varying the speed but is the variance between 2200rpm (70mph) and 2500rpm (85mph) big enough?

sashpe wrote:I am picking up my 140 TDi Roc tomorrow and driving it across the continent to Bulgaria. I am not worried about run in miles but run in speed. I got warned in another part of the forum that I should vary the rpm during the 1500miles trip as running in at constant speed might cause glazing of the bores?!? Any ideas? I wouldn't mind varying the speed but is the variance between 2200rpm (70mph) and 2500rpm (85mph) big enough?

Here you go.......

Bore Glazing

Cylinder bore glazing results from prolonged light load running, particularly during the running-in process, and leads to the formation of a surface coating or skin derived from chemicals present in the oil and fuel.

If glazed cylinder bores are examined, it is not unusual to see the honed crosshatch markings beneath a super-smooth, highly polished, varnish-like layer.

Bore glazing occurs at low speed and light load operations, particularly resulting from blow-by in new engines. Exhaust gases passing piston rings in newly built or re-built bores can react with oil and wear products, forming a golden-coloured varnish glaze.
Most engine manufacturers warn against the potential problem. Sabb and Lister-Petter are in surprising agreement on the subject, as shown in their operator's handbooks.

In each case the wording is identical: “Long periods of light or no-load running early in the engine's life may lead to cylinder bore glazing and high lub oil consumption.”

Cummins, Perkins and MAN all have issued directives limiting the run time at idle to prevent bore glazing.

In other words, it's only light load conditions that anyone should beware of, you often see canal boats running at idle in gear to give the engine a slight load to prevent this happening. In my view constant speed running under load is no problem at all.

P.S. This was taken from a marine engine website as that is where the problem manifests itself most because people just leave the engine idling for hours to charge up the batteries. I don't see any reason why this doesn't apply equally to car engines though. My belief is that you should go easy on the engine during running in but not too easy!

If you have to drive 1500 miles back home why not come off the motorway/autoroute from time to time and do some of the journey on single carriageway roads where your engine speed and load will be changing constantly. Just a thought but also will make the journey more interesting and allow you to enjoy the cars dynamics better than sitting at a constant speed on a long boring motorway.

Hi folks,
As a new member browsing through Tech Talk, I was interested to read the various opinions on running in (hope to do this to mine in the near future!)
My last new petrol VW was a MkIV Golf GTi 1.8T (150PS) which I ran in gently - perhaps too gently as it did not really fly. As a result, the wife's 1997 reg 1.6 Polo GL (70 something PS) could walk away from me coming out of a 30mph zone, unless I went from 4th to 3rd. She switched to a Beetle 1.8T in 2002 and she ran it in fairly briskly as advised by her local dealer -> "Take it easy until the engine is warm, then run as normal. Go easy on brakes and tyres for the first 600 miles".
Result is her Beetle feels closer to a 180PS not a 150PS. I'm getting offers from her to run in my Scirocco but I guess I'll just try things her way. The Golf gave great fuel economy - 45mph plus on combined - but it was at the expense of some zing.
My dealer is also giving the same advice and refers to performance bikes being run at 50% - 70% of full throttle to give good power and no glazing.

Run in, for the engine at least, will determine how much oil you'll use and will make a slight difference to power outputs. VW are very conservative about power, if you get a 140/170TDI and run it in well, don't be surprised if it's got 12% more power than stated after everything's loosened up (5-10k miles).

Some gentle run ins can be bad - I took a Golf TDI on a motorway trip as soon as I bought it - 300 miles at a pretty constant 2000prm/6th gear/70mph and it went through a litre of oil per 1000 miles for as long as I owned it. I think the bores got glazed.

On my last 2 VW TDIs, they've had gentle run ins around the doors, lots of varying engine speeds, but nothing over 3000rpm for first 500 miles, then 3500rpm for next 500 miles, then do what you like after that. With that technique, the last 2 cars have never used any oil between services (not enough to warrant a top-up).

The mototech link is for motorbikes - I wouldn't recommend screwing a car, it's way more complex than a bike, the engine has a lot more weight to pull than a bike, and it's going to be a lot dearer to fix an abused car engine than an abused bike engine (racing bikes are meant to be abused - a road-going car isn't). A car will probably do a hell of a lot more miles than a bike too, so you want it to last longer.

For all this advice though, if you only plan on keeping the car 3 years from new, the warranty will cover any mechanical issues unless you've willfully and recklessly abused the car beyond normal wear and tear.

Do it right and you'll get moderate gains in performance and economy over someone who hasn't, and you'll use a lot less oil.

I ran in my Edition 30 very gently .... the result - 229 bhp on Superchips rolling road as standard when other 'thrashed' Edition 30's on the same rollers were producing 255 bhp !

FWIW I have had three ex demonstrators over the last 15 years that have flown - a V6 4motion Golf, an S2000 and a BMW 330i. Cars I have run in gently have felt much slower than others of the same model I have driven before buying; namely a Nissan 200SX, a Scooby WRX and another S2000.

I think I am too careful and this has an effect on the power output. Would I have the bottle to thrash it from new .... probably not but my personal experiences say that not worrying too much about how much throttle you use (after warming up obviously) means a more powerful car !

In my family theres been a GTI 5, scirocco, ST, C63, SL55, 135i that have never been run in. Ever. Even when I picked up the scirocco I had to drive 1500km home and it saw over 200km/h pretty often. Same with the GTI and it never used to use oil between services.

This is a question about running in your new car.

-- How hard can you push the engine during the running in period?
-- Does it benefit performance and oil usage or damage the engine?
-- Is it the same for petrol and diesel?

Some people suggest following the manufacturers guidelines to the letter. Others advocate pushing the engine quite hard because if you don't your car could end up drinking oil. This is because it helps create a better seal for the piston rings (danwuk quote). How true is this I wonder?

maisbitt suggests that running your car in quite hard could even improve it's performace.

I had my last car --Golf 2.0 GT TDI-- from new and I ran it in according to the handbook. However it did indeed end up drinking oil as other people have testified (see link below).

Can anyone shed some new light on this subject before I destroy my new engine.

Thx, Gary
P.s. I know there is already a post about this (see below) but I don't feel it was definitively answered.
http://www.sciroccocentral.co.uk/forum/ ... n&start=20

I don't think there's a definitive answer.
My dealer told me to just drive normally but don't go mad from the start. I think there's something in the manual about it but it's out in the car. I drove fairly sedately in D for about 500 miles but I did give it a few squirts on the power from time to time. He also said a long motorway run sometime in the first month would be good. After 500 I started to drive on the paddle shift a bit more. I use it about 50% of the time now.

I was told, not to exceed 3000rpm for the first 500 miles.
Then no harsh acceleration up to 1000 miles.

apparently failure to adhere to this would lead the engine consuming more oil over its life. Makes sense i suppose

I didnt exactly adhere to the manual..but took it easy for the first 500 miles, maybe reaching 5-6k revs on a few occasions, and then opening up more as i reached the 1000 miles mark
I did have to top up my oil once the car reached approx 1000 miles. The car is now on 5500 miles and iv not had to top up since....

I don't think there's a wrong or a right answer. It all depends on your school of thought. There's one view where the Cynics would say that the Manufactureres would obviously prefer you to not over do things so that any stress points / weaknesses don't become apparent until the warranty has expired.
A mate of mine who used to be a race mechanic during the 70's and early 80's reckons you should just drive the thing hard from day one so any problems become apparent.
Me, I'm not so sure, and I have to confess thrashing the nuts off a new car from day one just doesn't sit comfortably with me.

Ours is being driven normally, ie with me like I stole it and with Lisa normal. If you are too gentle on modern engines they will glaze the bores and it will use more oil. Unlike the recommedation I will have an oil change done at 750-1000 miles to get rid of all the fine bits of metal worn off as it runs in. Just don't be too gentle.

All very interesting............. keep your opinions coming.

Fish says push it from new -- but how far? Rev up into the red line or just below it?

Redmeat says air on the side of caution even though his mechanic friend says thrash the nuts off from new.

Samir786 says push it into the 5-6K rev range but not over.

Kev adopted a fairly conservative approach with the occasional blast but not too much.

Gary

Bore glazing only occurs in mainly industrial engines that sit at constant revs /speed for prolonged periods. Car egines which have a constantly variable revs and loading, and a good supply of the correct lubricant will not suffer from bore glazing.
Dont forget there is more to an engine than the pistons. modern manufacturing methods mean that engine bores are finished to a high standard, where in the past they used to be honed, so needed the high spots worn off, But as for the crank shaft etc, all these have journals, shell bearings etc, and these do need to wear more gently to bed in.

I would have thought that the running in period is more benefit for these parts than the fuel side.

just my two cents..