Scirocco Central

Quick update; ordered new APR HPFP from USP and will be shipped to a friend of mine in USA and he will bring it to me by end of next week.

Also, installed the oil pressure gauge in my Rocco and will test it tomorrow, will see/share the numbers



Based on the below article -which I don’t understand from it anything- I will share the numbers and you can help

Oil Pressure 60PSI on idle in the morning when the car is just started;




Oil Pressure 20PSI on idle after driving the car -normal driving- for 45mins;



Any ideas?

when the engine is at 80C rev to 2000rpm, the oil pressure should be between 39-65PSI

edit, looking at the bottom gauge if your at 2000rpm reving in that picture then the first bullet point will apply.

mattyfitz wrote:when the engine is at 80C rev to 2000rpm, the oil pressure should be between 39-65PSI

edit, looking at the bottom gauge if your at 2000rpm reving in that picture then the first bullet point will apply.

Thanks mat...

I checked the oil pressure today at 2000rpm with oil temperature at 80c and below the results;



I guess this is very good by book!
And the error I had has been disappeared after I did the basic settings and tighten it well.

nice project!

irfscirocco wrote:nice project!

Thanks!

Just doing some maintenance with my friend [emoji7]

Was about to say, you dash looks a bit different lol

Just had a read through, impressive build good job

Paradox1 wrote:Was about to say, you dash looks a bit different lol

[emoji4]
Yeah, wish I have it.

xjay1337 wrote:Just had a read through, impressive build good job

Thanks mat, your build is also amazing [emoji1360]

Just quick update, I bought R20 AWD gearbox, differential, complete rear suspension, brakes, corona shafts, drive shafts, tank, etc...
The gearbox is already in the scrap yard and the rest will arrive from 2-3 weeks, it is already with low KMs, I will post pics once I have everything in the garage.

I have a question regarding the OEM Oil Temp...

I am using a Med9 ECU with the below details;
- ECU Hardware Number: 1K0907115A
- ECU Software Number: 1K0907115R 0020

The Oil Temperature doesn’t appear in the instrument/cluster, if I flashed the Med9 ECU by 1K0907115Q 0020 SW then the Oil Temperature appears in instrument/cluster.
I tried using the PolarFIS to see if it will work on it or not and I found the Oil Temperature appears with -60 with 1K0907115R 0020; then I flashed the same Med9 ECU with 1K0907115Q 0020 SW and I found the Oil Temperature appears and work normally in the instrument/cluster and in the PolarFIS too!
That means the wiring of the Oil temperature sensor is installed correctly and there is no problem with it.

Also, I tried all the above with ECU Hardware Number: 8P0907115B and same issue and results existed with it too!

Note: The Oil Temperature sensor is the VW OEM one not an aftermarket one.

Just little update;
My car went to the workshop to install the pending stuff, FINALLY!

Started the TurboZentrum EFR7163 kit and parts installation process;

Say bye bye to GTX2867R & VF Engineering high flow manifold...

Testing the old camshafts setup before installing the R one, the setup was excellent according to the camshaft tools...



Checked the fitting for a second windshield tank but it won’t fit! The location is very tight for it and there will be no place for the pipe, any ideas?

Seems like a lot off work! Good job for the holidays.
Can't you fit the 5,5 liter reservoir or do you have it already?
Maybe you can combine 2 tanks together with two tubes (1 top, 1 bottem) and o-ring seals.
Then squeez them together so you don't need seperate tubing.

Roy_01 wrote:Seems like a lot off work! Good job for the holidays.
Can't you fit the 5,5 liter reservoir or do you have it already?
Maybe you can combine 2 tanks together with two tubes (1 top, 1 bottem) and o-ring seals.
Then squeez them together so you don't need seperate tubing.

Yeah lots of work!
I didn’t try another reservoir to replace the existed one. I am thinking of having another windshield washer reservoir in the other side to be dedicated to the WMI .. due to the country regulations I won’t be able to have the WMI tank I the trunk

Here are the updates;
Installed the TurboZentrum EFR7163 kit after few modifications!









The kit didn’t fit directly because of the 1.5bar wastegate, so I had to remove the wastegate bracket and increasing the wastegate bolts location by 3mm, then install the kit and tight the wastegate after that.

Removed the bracket from turbo by losing the 3 red bolts;


And from the wastegate from losing the 2 green bolts;



As you can see there is small space between the wastegate bolt and the circle which reflect the 3mm has been increased.


Also, I had to shave the banjo bolt cone with the kit in order to make it fit. It fits but with only 1mm far from the WG but not touching it, I will replace it by the OEM banjo bolt as it is smaller and will fit much better.


It was very hard to install the 3.5” custom intake inlet because of the space but I succeeded at the end. Wish if I listened to Eric and have the air intake inlet 2.5” or 3” maximum!


Installed the K04 3” DP, wrapped the TP;




Installed the Milltek exhaust, I love it [emoji7]


I checked the spark plugs (after 24h from installing it) and I found it black which means the car running very rich!





This is how it looks now after installing all parts.


Now, I have problem with the car while starting in the cold start or even during the normal day. The car took too much time in order to start and then the engine turned off! It works only if I press the acceleration paddle for one minute (doing the cold start manually).

https://vimeo.com/251445781

The below parts are installed during the TurboZentrum EFR7163 kit installation:

- TurboZentrum EFR7163 kit
- RS4 injectors
- R20 intake camshaft
- IE manifold
- 3.5” custom air intake
- DM EFR7163 Revision file

Nothing more, nothing less and before that the car was starting quickly from the first key turn and very smooth with quite engine sound.

I did some VCDS checks and here the results:













The variation in fuel rail is very strange!
I even returned back the previous GTX file which was calibrated for S3 injectors and GTI camshaft and the fuel rail variation is still the same!!

What do you think?
All ideas are welcome!

While I still have same issue of not starting engine quickly and it took long time to start with UN stable startup, I received the R20 AWD differential and subframe and all necessary rear stuff. I already got the R20 gearbox, fuel tank from few months and it was waiting for the rest of AWD parts!
Once I fixed the engine mechanical or tuning issue I will plan for the AWD conversion.