Black dots and Orange Dots Candy White

[Jamie_liverpool]

Hi Everyone,

Noticed recently a lot of orange and black dots all over my car recently. Iv searched this forum for info on this and it seem it could be tar spots and iron spots?

I'm just wondering what the best way to sort this and what technique? What's the best products and in which order should they be used?

Also my car has the autoglym lifeshine. When I was sold this I thought it would repel problems like this, like that is the whole point of the Autoglym Lifeshine??

Sorry for all the questions, I'm pretty clueless when it comes to this sort of stuff.

Thanks for your help in advance

[Shaun1982]

Guessing a dealer sold you the autoglym? Absolute waste of money in my opinion, a lot of money from my past experience as a valeter for a big company.
Anyway to the point, a clay bar will remove your tar spots.
The usual suspects make these, 3m, meguiars etc. Meguiars do it in a kit too with lube.
There's also a product called ironx out there too but I've never used this.
Hope that helps dude

Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk

[Jamie_liverpool]

Yeah mate dealer actually threw it in as part of the deal, as it's usually sold at £500 ago at Leeds VW he gave me all the spiel about it like an I thought it sounded decent, obviously not!

Ok mate Ill defo look into getting some of that kit, thanks a lot for the help.

[Brocky]

As Shaun said; Tar and Iron fallout.

The Lifeshine stuff is a complete con. In fact, in a lot of cases, the dealer's valeters will cause more damage to your paintwork applying it, than it would have actually prevented.

The orange stuff is iron fallout. Mainly brake dust or other tiny particles of iron that have embeded themself into your paint and are now corroding. Iron X will sort that.

The black, as Shaun said, is tar. However, I'd use Tardis (or similar tar spot removal product) before attempting claying, tbh.

You will want to wash and dry your car. There are ways I would reccomend you do this, but it's your call how you do it. If you want help, though, shout up.

Once clean and dry, the main thing is FOLLOW THE INSTRUCTIONS for the products you are using and you won't go far wrong. Basically, you will be spraying the stuff on and rinsing off, but DO make sure to read and follow the instructions.

Hope this helps....and if you have any more questions, then gimme a shout.

[whiteDevil_170]

The black dots will be tar. U need either a tar and glue remover like autosmart tardis or auto finesse obliterate.

The orange spots is iron fallout. ( rust like colour )
U need a fall out remover like carpro ironx or auto finesse iron out. Alternatively u can clay bar but I prefer the to use the other products as its less chance of inflicting damage to the paint. Also using tar remover like tardis etc will strip any paint protection. So that lifeshine will be gone. And ud want to to apply a fresh coat of wax or sealent to protect the paint.

[whiteDevil_170]

Damn u brocky beat me to it ! Lol. You dont have to dry your car after washing to use these products. Can be applied to a wet car.

[Brocky]

Here are a couple of videos that should help you out.

Tardis

[youtube][/youtube]



Tar, Iron & Claying

[youtube][/youtube]

[Jamie_liverpool]

Thanks a lot for that everyone , massive help. I'll look at getting that stuff tomorrow and get straight onto it. Does my head in this weather, my car looks constantly dirty.

Brocky, Yeah mate any advice on the cleaning aswel would be great, you certainly know what your doing more than me so I'm open to any advice.

Interesting what you say about that lifeshine stuff aswel . I certainly wouldn't make that mistake again .

Thanks again

[Brocky]

Damn u brocky beat me to it ! Lol. You dont have to dry your car after washing to use these products. Can be applied to a wet car.

You did point out something that I missed, though. The need to apply a wax or sealant after dealing with the nasty stuff.

[whiteDevil_170]

Damn u brocky beat me to it ! Lol. You dont have to dry your car after washing to use these products. Can be applied to a wet car.

You did point out something that I missed, though. The need to apply a wax or sealant after dealing with the nasty stuff.

Thats what im here for!

[Brocky]

Brocky, Yeah mate any advice on the cleaning aswel would be great, you certainly know what your doing more than me so I'm open to any advice.

You really want to go down this road, mate? It's a slippery slope that's hard to come back from and one that your wallet may not appreciate, if you let it get a hold of you!

Ok, well I'm going under the assumption that you usually wash your car at the local jetwash or get someone to do it for you. If I'm mistaken and it actually turns out that I'm telling you stuff that you already know as being obvious, then apologies.

I'm not going hugely into detail here, just the bare basics of a good, safe wash. You can go further with pre-washes and snow foams etc, but that's going to cost you more and you'll need a bit of extra equipment and product to go down that route.

First, you need the bare basics:

Buckets. Two of them. One for wash only, the other for rinsing only.
A washmitt: Microfibre, lamb's wool or something similar.
Shampoo: Many brands out there. Meguire's stuff in general is good and easy to get a hold of. Halfords should have it.
A pressure washer, or at the very least, a good hose.

The 2 bucket wash method (2BM):
Remove any rings, watches, belts and anything that could scratch your paint!

One bucket filled with warm water and shampoo. This is your WASH bucket.
One bucket filled with clean water only. This is your RINSE bucket.

Rinse the whole car, thoroughly. Blast off as much crud as you can. A pressure washer obviously helps here, but a hose will do.

You take your washmitt and dunk it in your wash bucket to load it up with suds. You then shampoo the car. Nice and easy with not too much pressure, where possible. Do a panel at a time.

Then, you dunk your mitt in the rinse bucket. Give it a good shake. You're looking to get all the crap you just pulled off of the car out of the mitt and into the water, but try not to 'swirl' the water around too much, as this will just put dirt back into your mitt and then transfer it into your wash bucket and then back onto the car, scratching your paint. If possible, give it a little rinse with an open ended hose....but not necessary.

Once you're happy you have a crud free mitt, dunk back into the wash bucket, load up and wash the next panel.

The idea is that your wash bucket will remain perfectly clean and your rinse bucket will collect the crud shaken out of your washmitt.

Once all the panels are washed, give it a good rinse with the pressure washer or nozzled hose....or at a push, with a FRESH CLEAN bucket of water.

Then get to work with your Tar & Iron removal products. AGain, I can't stress enough with decontamination products: Follow the instructions!

Once done, apply a wax or sealant. Job's a goodun!

Once you know, the 2BM is simple and makes perfect sense, really....but something that many people overlook and cause crazy amounts of damage to their paintwork.

Hope this helps you out.

[Jamie_liverpool]

Wow thanks a lot mate that's a massive help. I ordered the iron x last night so should be here soon.

Just need some decent weather now. Just one thing is claying essential ??

Iv got a lot of work on my hands here there's quite a lot of orange an black dots on the Rocco, the more I look the more I keep finding

Anyway thanks again for your help , very very appreciated mate

[whiteDevil_170]

It isn't essential . I haven't clayed my car once yet. But I have used iron out and tar remover quite a few times.
They will do the job fine without the need to clay. You can damage the paint by claying. I've found using the dedicated removers does a good enough job.

[Brocky]

As Whitedevil said, it's not essential and you're kinda stepping into intermediate detailing territory.

If you really want to get a tip-top finish, it's definitely the way forward....though, I'd recommend doing some research before you try it.

Here's a video that's a decent place to start.

[youtube][/youtube]

[youtube][/youtube]

[Mark V]

Fantastic advice from Brocky and Whitedevil - they really know their stuff!

As advised, claying is not essential but its a good thing to learn to do at some point as it can get you out of some tricky problems. When I have a bit more time I will tell you all about what happened to my Candy White Mk.6 Golf.....